How I Spent One Day in Turin in December (A Winter Day Trip Itinerary)
A visit to Venaria Reale, central Turin, and the Gran Balon market.
With its cosy cafés, regal architecture, festive decorations, and Alpine backdrop, Turin in December makes an ideal winter day trip.
But for a city that was Italy’s first capital and the seat of the royal family, it remains surprisingly under-visited.
Even I’m guilty of overlooking it: despite years of visiting Piedmont, I’d never been to Turin (gasp!). This December, I decided it was time to put that right and spend a day getting to know the city.
Here’s how it unfolded, with a few suggestions for spending a December day in Turin.
Morning: Arriving in Turin
Many people use Turin as a jumping-off point for the rest of Piemonte. This often means you’ll be arriving in the morning, spending a few hours in the city, then leaving in the afternoon—which is what I did.
It’s worth getting a window seat on your flight as both sides of the plane get stunning views. Flying in from the west, we were level with the snow-capped peaks on one side, with views of the Po valley, the Langhe, and the distant French Alps on the other.
As we approached the airport, the watery morning light and thin veil of mist covering the scene made for an atmospheric arrival in Turin.
Visiting Piedmont this December? Discover the magical Christmas village that all the family will love.
First Stop: Venaria Reale
Often called the “Versailles of Italy”, this royal palace and its enormous gardens, overlooked by the imposing Alps, are easy to reach from the airport due to their location north-west of the city. We drove, but you can also take the train there from the airport in just 20 minutes.
The palace works as a half-day or even full-day visit—it has a café and restaurant if you need refreshments after your flight—and part of the palace is a dedicated exhibition space.
Due to its enormous size, different ticket options offer access to different parts of the buildings and grounds. We visited the gardens and exhibition, which cost €12 per person.
The royal gardens at Venaria Reale with the Alps in the background. Photos by Secret Piemonte
In December 2025, the exhibition featured Fernand Léger and other “new realists” of the twentieth century, like Yves Klein, Keith Haring, and Niki de Sainte Phalle. The palace made a perfect backdrop for the artwork, with the gardens and mountains visible through the darkened windows.
Having worked up an appetite at Venaria, we headed to the city.
An exhibition of Fernand Léger and the "new realists" at Venaria Reale. Photos by Secret Piemonte
Exploring Turin City Centre
We drove to Turin city centre (but you can take the train from Venaria Reale Rigola Stadio station on the Torino–Ceres line) and parked near Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
Street parking is free on Sundays if you’re lucky enough to find a spot, and this is a good central location for exploring the centre—close to the Mole Antonelliana, royal palace, and some of the main piazzas.
My aim was just to soak in the festive atmosphere and experience the city at Christmas time, so we set off to explore without much of a plan.
The Gran Balon Market (+ Where to Find a Piadina)
Every second Sunday of the month, central Turin hosts the Gran Balon antiques and vintage market. As it happened to be on, the streets were filled with vendors selling everything from antique furniture to contemporary art.
We joined the crowds walking under the famous porticoes on Via Po, browsing the market along the way. When we got hungry, we stopped for a piadina at Piadineria Brûlé, which makes a perfect pitstop if you’re visiting the Mole Antonelliana.
(Side note: there’s a restaurant called Poormanger that serves British-inspired jacket potatoes with an Italian twist which I’m dying to try. Unfortunately, there was an hour-long queue, so we decided to leave it for next time.)
Piazza Castello, Via Roma, and Piazza San Carlo
From the market, we walked all the way to Piazza Castello, where there was an inexplicable gathering of firemen outside the castle, then along Via Roma, with its high-end designer shops, which is currently in the process of being pedestrianised.
The city was beautifully decorated for Christmas, with tasteful lights suspended over the streets, Christmas trees inside the elegant galleries, and enchantingly decorated shop windows. At night, the spire of the Mole Antonelliana sparkles with lights.
First row L-R: A giant advent calendar; a bookshop window; a festive display of traditional tarts Second row L-R: A Christmas market; Christmas decorations inside a gallery; Caffè Torino at Piazza San Carlo Third row L-R: Staff working inside Caffè Torino; a shop window display of panettone & liqueurs
Following the crowds, we arrived at Piazza San Carlo, with its twin churches, famous statue, and historic cafés. We warmed up with a “punch”—a grappa-adjacent drink, served hot—at the historic Caffè Torino, with its Belle Époque interior that feels like stepping back 100 years in time.
Finally, we got in the car and drove the 40 minutes to where I was staying in the Roero. If you don’t have a car, you can reach the Langhe-Roero-Monferrato by trains running from Turin to Alba, Asti, and Bra.
Interested in exploring rural winter traditions in Piedmont? Learn about Carrù's Fat Ox Fair and how to include it in your visit.
Is One Day in Turin Enough in Winter?
One day in Turin in December gives you enough time to glimpse a few of the main sights, try some typical Torinese experiences like drinking bicerin in an historic café, or go deep on one main attraction—so aim to be realistic about what you can fit in.
My day in Turin was like a tasting menu of the city that left me with plenty to go back for—the Mole Antonelliana, the Egyptian museum, the chocolate, the cafés, the surrounding hilltop churches, and even its history and occult side.
Can't make it to Piedmont this Christmas? This gift guide will help you give your loved ones la dolce vita—without leaving home.
Practical Tips for a One-Day Winter Visit to Turin
- Wear warm layers.
- Buy a one-day ticket for tram, metro, and bus (€3.70 digital/€4.50 paper ticket). Available from tobacconists and bars with the GTT logo, machines in metro stations, and on the TO Move app.
- Book restaurants and museums in advance if visiting on weekends.
- Visit during the week to avoid crowds and queues (but you might miss weekend-only events).
Make sure you have everything need for your winter trip to Piedmont with this one-week packing list.
